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W R Long Flat Tooth Bar
Where to Buy
Cannot be purchased direct from W.R. Long but their web site has a dealer locator. There's a good chance you can just call one and have it shipped UPS. Remember to specify the inside bucket measurement and whether you want the Flat or Standard Tooth Bar. If your nearest dealers won't ship it, Carver Equipment probably will.Installation on BX24
| 1. The tooth bar was shipped unpackaged, with shipping labels stuck directly on the bar. It's nominally 48" but you need to provide the inside bucket dimension when ordering. In my case 46.5". Make sure not to over-measure or you won't be able to fit the bar. I arranged a pair of saw horses so I could work at a comfortable height.  | 2. The mounting holes are slots and the arm ends have been "rounded". Thus by loosening the mounting bolts the FTB can be pulled forward and flipped up into the bucket. (See later pictures for how the tolerance can be problematical.)  |
3. The mounting hardward supplied is a pair of 3/4" bolts with washers and lock washers. I used a 3/4" bi-metal hole saw for drilling (and a 1/4" drill for pilot holes). | 4. To mark the drilling points I positioned the bar so the bucket edge was fully inserted into the 'V' above the tooth bar's base plate. There is some up-and-down play - I wiggled it until the tooth bar base was parallel to the bucket base. It retained this position while I marked the holes - so I did not need a second pair of hands or clamps to hold it. Using a felt pen I traced the mounting slot (front half) on the bucket wall. If you mountusing the back of the slot you will not be able to pull the bar forward sufficiently to flip it up. On the other hand, if this is of no concern, using the back end of the slot will give you a more secure installation that will not slide forward accidentally. Then I used the mounting washer (supplied) to mark the circle for the hole.  |
| 5. To cool the drill I used a tablespoon of motor oil sitting in a bottle top. I first drilled a pilot hole with a normal drill (say 1/4") and then used the hole saw. I used a medium drill speed, and dipped the drill tip in the oil whenever it got hot (and smoke was visible). Instead of drilling entirely from one side, I switched to the other side of the work when I could see the impression of the ring. (See picture.) This gave a clean hole without a lot of burrs.  | 6. I used a round file to remove any rough edges from the hole, |
7. The finished job. Note how the bolts are at the front end of the slot. | 8. The flat underside. |
9. With bolts loosened the bar can be pulled forward to disengage the lower lip, and then flipped up. However I ran into a minor problem at this point... | 10. The tooth that is second from the camera fouls the top of the bucket and prevents the bar from flipping to a more stable position further inside the bucket. I'll can fix this by filing the tooth down, but that is hard work. Perhaps I could have avoided this by positioning the mounting holes lower of further forward, but their position was determined by other factors as stated earlier so there is not much margin for change.  |
apmillard |
Latest page update: made by apmillard
, May 25 2008, 7:51 PM EDT
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